Tamara and I slept in a bed designed for one in Meemaw's apartment. It was cramped but twice the size of the hovel on the mountain. It brought back a few memories of staying warm in the most wonderful way. It was Melina who woke us early the following morning. After she had been fed and changed, I spent a good part of the morning making her smile. She was getting stronger, raising up on her knees and rocking back and forth. I knew she was about to be independently mobile.

Yana cooked a large brunch for my return. The family gathered in her apartment and feasted while I explained,...