The sailing was a little rough, and they had to motor through a short-lived storm, but the Nymph fared well. They reached the small island by early evening, just ahead of another squall that swept past in less than 30 minutes, leaving the deck wet and the air a little less humid than it had been.

There were two parts to the Island they read about in their cruising guide. The first was where the ferries and day-trip boats went. It was still small and quaint, but that's where you'd find the people. The other was toward the opposite end of the island where private boaters preferred to go. There...